There’s a peculiar thing about Indian restaurants in central London. They tend to fall into two distinct categories: those serving what they claim is ‘authentic curry’ (usually bearing the same resemblance to Indian food as a postcard does to the Taj Mahal), and those charging Mayfair prices for what essentially amounts to a few prawns taking a luxury spa day in coconut milk.
In an area where tourists happily pay West End prices for West End disappointments, sometimes, just sometimes, you find yourself pleasantly surprised in the most unexpected places. Masala Zone has got the buzz – the kind of buzz that makes you forget you’re eating within spitting distance of a tourist queue for Mamma Mia! The place is alive with chatter, the scent of spice heavy in the air, and an atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re about to have a wonderfully good time. Which, as it turns out, you are.
Running from now until 27th April, Masala Zone is rewriting almost the entire menu to take diners on a culinary coastal voyage like no other. Offering the unique range and regional depth that has become synonymous with Masala Zone, the MW Eat restaurant group’s highly skilled chefs have cooked up a vibrant and sumptuous showcase of the fascinating cuisines and sub-cuisines to be found amongst the buzzing street food stalls and gourmet homes in this part of the sub-continent.
For a limited run, The Culinary Voyage of the West Coast of India sees the west coast’s culinary influence from six flavour-fuelled territories infusing all parts of the restaurant’s expansive menus, from Thali to Curries, House Biryanis and Grazing Small Plates. Diners will be transported from the majestic temple-laden state of Gujarat in the north of the west coast with its vast repertoire of vegetarian dishes and robust tastes that define Kutchi cuisine to the port city of Mumbai where a potpourri of all influences including the Maharashtrian’s hearty Kolhapuri cuisine, the delicate flavours of Saraswati, and local fisher folk cuisine combine to create exciting and complex Bombay dishes. The new menus also showcase dishes inspired by the Konkan Coast, Goa, the Malabar Coast and Kerala.
Kathiawari Yam Tikki Chaat
Featuring an unusual crisped purple yam mash giving way to a hidden heart of spiced peas, the contrast in textures is a joy. However, it’s the tamarind and yoghurt that truly make this sing – sharp, creamy, and just chaotic enough to keep each bite exciting. It’s one of those dishes that feels both unfamiliar and instantly comforting, a flavour-packed postcard from Gujarat’s coastal kitchens. You’ll find yourself wondering why purple yam isn’t a staple in every Indian restaurant.
Goan Spiced Crab Cake
Famously served at the Mandovi Hotel in Panjim, the Goan Spiced Crab Cake is a little golden puck of joy, crisp on the outside, meltingly soft in the middle, and packed with the kind of fresh, sweet crab that actually tastes like it came from the sea rather than a tin at the back of the cupboard. But what makes it sing is the seasoning—layers of aromatic spices that tingle at the edges, brightened by herbs and a whisper of citrus. Then there’s the vindaloo mayo, which is just ridiculously creamy, fiery, and laced with just enough je ne sais quoi to cut through the richness, it makes you want to smear it on everything in sight. If they bottled it, I’d buy it by the litre.
Karwari Crispy Fried Prawns
If I had a plate of these and absolutely nothing else, I’d still leave happy. They’re everything a fried prawn should be—golden, crunchy, and dangerously moreish, with that irresistible contrast between the brittle coating and the plump, juicy centre. But what seals the deal is the raw mango green chutney. It’s bright, tangy, and just sharp enough to cut through the richness of the fry, adding an extra layer of freshness that makes you wonder why all prawns aren’t served like this.
Onion Flower Bhajia
This deep-fried, golden tangle of crispiness lands on the table looking like an edible firework. The batter is light, the onion soft but holding its own, and the whole thing has the kind of crunch that makes conversation momentarily impossible. Dunked into the chaat chutney, which is a riot of sweet, tangy, and spicy, it’s the sort of starter you could eat endlessly until you suddenly realise you’ve had three portions and are now too full for the main course. An absolute winner—if you’ve got the willpower to stop.
Goa Cafreal Green Herb Chicken Tikka
The marinade of this Goan-inspired Chicken Tikka is a punchy mix of green herbs and warming spices that clings to the chicken like a well-tailored suit, infusing every bite with layers of fragrant goodness. There’s a smoky char from the grill, a whisper of heat at the finish, and an overall brightness that keeps it from feeling heavy. It’s Goa in a mouthful – bold, fresh, and absolutely something you’ll be ordering again.
Alleppey Prawn Curry
The Alleppey Prawn Curry arrives radiating the kind of sunshine-yellow glow that instantly transports you to the palm fringed backwaters of the Malabar Coast. The prawns are plump, sweet, and perfectly cooked, bathing in a sauce that’s a masterclass in balance – raw mango bringing a sharp, tangy edge, ginger and green chilli adding warmth, and turmeric grounding it all with earthiness. It’s the kind of curry that demands to be finished to the very last mouthful, with each bite a swirling contrast of heat, sourness, and creaminess. Fragrant, fiery, and utterly addictive – this is coastal Malabar cuisine at its finest.
Cochin Lamb Curry with Roasted Coconut
This is the kind of dish that makes you question why you’d ever bother cooking at home. Rich, deeply spiced, and slow-cooked to perfection, the lamb melts into a sauce that’s all warmth and complexity. The roasted coconut adds a toasty depth, while fennel, star anise, and cinnamon weave together into something that sits between aromatic and utterly indulgent. It’s said to be Kerala’s answer to Rogan Josh, but frankly, it might just be better – because once you’ve mopped up every last drop with a fluffy naan, you’ll already be planning your next visit.
Konkani Veg Khatkhate Curry
This vegetable curry, inspired by the cuisine of the Konkan Coast, is the sort of dish that makes you rethink everything you thought you knew about vegetarian cooking. A riot of seasonal vegetables, each holding its own in a sauce that’s creamy with coconut, sharp with kokum, and humming with mustard and curry leaves. There’s depth, warmth, and just enough tang to keep you going back for more. It’s vibrant, festive, and unapologetically bold.
Malabari Moplah Lamb Biryani
There are two kinds of biryani in this world: the sad, dry kind that tastes like someone just threw some curry powder on rice and called it a day, and the proper kind, where every grain is infused with spice, the meat is meltingly tender, and the whole thing smells like heaven. This is firmly in the second camp. The lamb falls apart at the slightest nudge, the rice is fragrant and perfectly cooked, and every bite is a little different—some with a burst of sweetness from caramelised onions, some with a hit of warming spice. It’s the kind of dish that reminds you why biryani has been a classic for centuries.
Peshawari Naan
So simple in theory, yet so often ruined by lazy kitchens that churn out dry, lifeless discs of flour that feel like they belong in a budget airline meal. But not here. No, here they arrive hot from the tandoor, puffed up in all the right places, charred just enough to add a whisper of smokiness without veering into burnt territory. There’s a perfect balance of crispness and chew, the kind that makes you want to tear off a piece and dunk it straight into whatever sauce is nearest. And they actually taste like something – not just an afterthought to scoop up curry but a thing of beauty in their own right. If I could get away with ordering nothing but a basket of these and a few dips, I just might.
Gulab Jamun with Ginger Ice Cream
This is the kind of dessert that sneaks up on you. The gulab jamun – golden, syrup-soaked, and unapologetically rich – delivers all the usual decadence, but it’s the ginger ice cream that steals the show. Cool, creamy, and just fiery enough to cut through the sweetness, it transforms the dish from a predictable sugar rush into something altogether more sophisticated. The contrasting flavours and textures offers the dessert equivalent of a mic drop. This dessert is yet more evidence to prove that Masala Zone knows exactly what they’re doing.
The Verdict
Masala Zone doesn’t just do good curry – it does proper curry. No shortcuts, no watered-down spicing, no overpriced mediocrity. It’s on point, it’s fun, and most importantly, it’s really, really tasty. Which, in the theatreland of central London, is something of a pleasant surprise.
Masala Zone Covent Garden
48 Floral Street, London WC2E 9DA
020 7379 0101
www.masalazone.com
