By Simo Simpson, co-founder Dram Bar London, the contemporary multi-faceted bar in Soho.
When it comes to whisky, its traditionally believed that the older the whisky, the higher its quality. However, this is an evolving debate, and there’s a growing appreciation for younger, non-age statement (NAS) whiskies. Here are a few tips on how I navigate the world of whisky.
Age Isn’t Everything: It’s About Maturation
In whisky, age can be misleading. While it’s true that whisky undergoes significant changes as it matures in the cask, the rate of maturation is influenced by several factors, particularly the climate and the environment where it’s aged.
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- Warmer climates speed up maturation, allowing a whisky to take on rich flavours and characteristics more quickly.
- Colder climates slow down the aging process, giving the whisky more time to develop subtle and refined notes over many years.
This means that a 20-year-old Scotch from a colder climate, like Scotland, might have a similar maturation profile to a 6-8-year-old whisky from a warmer climate, like Taiwan’s Kavalan distillery. So, when you’re choosing a whisky, focus on where it’s made and how the climate affects the maturation rather than just the age statement on the bottle.
The Rise of Non-Age Statement (NAS) Whiskies
The whisky world has seen a surge in NAS whiskies, which are typically younger and sometimes don’t have an age statement at all. As whisky distilleries expand and struggle to meet demand, many are releasing these younger expressions, often with incredible results.
But not all NAS whiskies are created equal. The key difference between a good and a bad NAS whisky often boils down to the quality of the new make (the distilled spirit before aging). If a distillery focuses on crafting a great new make, the aging process will amplify those foundational flavours.
Focus on the New Make: It All Starts There
A distillery’s success begins with its new make. Legendary figures in the whisky world, like Dr. Jim Swan, have championed the idea that “just create a great new make, and aging will be easy.” His work with distilleries such as Kilchoman, Kavalan, and Nc’nean underscores this philosophy. The new make is the foundation—just like great ingredients in cooking. If the new make is of high quality, the final product will shine, regardless of age.
Climate and Cask Influence
Understanding how different environments affect whisky aging can help you make smarter choices. In warmer climates, the whisky will extract more flavors from the cask, leading to stronger, more intense influences from the wood. In colder climates, the flavors develop more slowly, and the whisky may maintain a lighter, more delicate profile.
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- Warmer climates (e.g., Taiwan, Spain) tend to result in whiskies that are bold and have prominent wood influence.
- Colder climates (e.g., Scotland, Ireland) often produce whiskies that are more subtle and nuanced, with the maturation taking longer to reach its peak.
Tips and Tricks on How to Choose the Best Whisky
1. Independent Bottlers
Independent bottlers are a great source of unique and high-quality whiskies. These bottlers often select single casks from distilleries they love and bottle them as-is, giving you access to some of the best-kept secrets from the whisky world. Look for reputable names like Carn Mor and Gordon & MacPhail, both of which offer excellent independent bottlings, often at younger ages.
2. Newer Distilleries & NAS Bottlings
While established brands might lean heavily on age statements, younger distilleries often pride themselves on their NAS whiskies, where creativity and innovation take centre stage. Distilleries like Nc’nean, Kilchoman, Cotswolds, and Fielden are known for producing exceptional young whiskies that showcase a modern approach to distilling.
3. Pairing Whisky with Food
An often-overlooked trick when selecting whisky is considering what flavours you enjoy in food. Since our olfactory sense (the sense of smell) is closely tied to memory and flavour, selecting a whisky that mirrors the tastes you love in food can lead to a more enjoyable experience.
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- If you’re a fan of steak and red wine, look for whiskies with bold sherry cask influences or those that use a worm tub (like Craigellachie).
- If your palate leans toward fish and white wine, opt for lighter whiskies, such as those from Miyagikyo in Japan, which are known for their delicate, floral character.
Ultimately, whisky is about personal preference, and the best way to find what suits you is by trying as many as you can. Focus on the flavours, the cask influence, and the distillery’s commitment to quality at every step—from the new make to the final bottling. Whisky isn’t just about age; it’s about the craft behind it.
About the expert
Simo Simpson is co-founder of Dram Bar London. Although known to many as an icon in the whisky world, Simo began his career heading up a construction company that was responsible for many construction sites in central London. However, he soon decided that he wanted to enter the hospitality industry; where he started by setting up a string of bars before opening his first big success Coal Vaults in Soho.
It was while he was working at Coal Vaults where Simo first discovered Milroys, the oldest whisky specialist in London and a Soho institution. Eventually, Simo decided to sell Coal Vaults and buy Milroys, which was in decline at the time and he spent the next eight years restoring it. At Milroy’s Simo introduced the bar programme it is now known for and he also opened The Vault, a secret underground cocktail hidden behind a bookcase. Then in 2019, Simo expanded Milroys and opened a three-storey townhouse in the heart of Spitalfields, which included both whisky and cocktail bars, as well as a member’s club complete with a private cigar terrace.
While at the helm of Milroys, Simo won various awards, including Best Whisky Bar in the Icons of Whisky awards. He was then commissioned in 2022 by the Pan Pacific hotel group to help launch their new hotel bar Silverleaf where he collaborated with Christ Tanner (fellow Dram founder) and designer Tom Dixon. Simo then got together with his two close friends Jack Wallis and Chris Tanner to open Dram, Soho’s latest cocktail and whisky bar. Find out more at drambar.co.uk
